Now they’re an institution, with an additional bakehouse in Victoria Park and this London Fields location, which does bread-based duties by day and sit-down dinners at night. It wasn’t long until their signature maple bacon croissant would bring them flakey fame, with Nigella Lawson singing its sweet and sticky praises. No, honestly! The Insta-infamous east London bakery first rose into doughy life on the backstreets of Islington in 2017. Pophams isn’t just a pasta restaurant, it’s a lifestyle. Such history buffery is matched by a proudl If you’d rather not focus on the futility of human experience, then simply enjoy a menu closed with a wax seal, which is handed over with a stately, secretive air that can only be described as masonic. The airy dining room’s massive windows look out onto the cloisters of London’s oldest surviving church, the medieval St Bartholomew-the-Great, as well the city’s oldest residential building, and as you gaze at both, you can simultaneously contemplate your utter meaninglessness in the ongoing, epic churn of time. Opened in October 2022 by the power trio of chef Johnnie Crowe, co-founder and front of house guru (and occasional plate maker) Luke Wasserman and money man Toby Neill – who proved their mettle with the shifting single-ingredient focussed Nest in Hackney – Restaurant St Barts makes the most of its ancient-adjacent location. And at a heroic 15 courses served over three and a half hours, almost as plentiful. The offerings at London’s latest Michelin starred spot might be more appetising than a glass jar containing the pickled liver of a Victorian prisoner, but they’re no less fascinating.
An extraordinary collection of 4,000 human specimens, each more intriguing and peculiar than the last, it’s a similar experience to that of visiting the ambitious Restaurant St Barts. The last time I shuffled around the history-riddled streets around Smithfield meat market, I was flexing my goth muscle at the rarely-open Barts Pathology Museum.
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